Ape Cave Hiking Guide: Upper vs. Lower Tubes & Tips

Exploring the dark lava tube of Ape Cave near Mt St Helens

Walking into the mouth of Ape Cave feels like stepping onto another planet. Formed about 2,000 years ago, this lava tube is the third longest in North America, and it offers one of the most unique hiking experiences in the Pacific Northwest. It is dark, cool, and surprisingly accessible—if you come prepared. Whether you are looking for an easy family walk underground or a rugged subterranean scramble, this guide covers how to explore Ape Cave safely and comfortably.

Know Before You Go: The Essentials

Ape Cave is not a commercial show cave with colored lights and paved paths; it is a wild lava tube. The environment inside is rough, pitch black, and consistent. A little preparation makes the difference between a cold, short trip and an amazing adventure.

Reservations and Passes

Timed Reservations Required (Seasonal)
From late May through October, you typically must have a timed reservation ticket (purchased via Recreation.gov) to park at Ape Cave. These often sell out on weekends. If you are visiting in the off-season (winter/early spring), no reservation is usually needed, but always check current status before driving up.

Temperature & Gear

The cave stays at a constant 42°F (5°C) year-round. Even if it is 80°F outside, you will be able to see your breath inside. Bring a warm layer (fleece or light puffy jacket) and sturdy, closed-toe shoes. The floor is uneven lava rock, so flip-flops or smooth-soled sneakers can be dangerous.

Light Sources

It is absolute darkness inside. Do not rely on your phone flashlight. The battery will drain quickly in the cold, and the light isn’t strong enough to see the footing clearly. We recommend a headlamp for every person (hands-free is best for balance) plus at least one backup flashlight for the group.

Choosing Your Route: Upper vs. Lower Cave

The main entrance splits into two distinct experiences. You can do one or both depending on your energy levels and group capability.

The Lower Cave (Family Friendly)

Distance: 0.75 miles (out and back)
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

The Lower Cave is the most popular choice. It is wider, has a flatter floor (though still rocky), and is generally easier to navigate. It takes about an hour to walk down to the “Meatball” (a large block of wedged lava) and back. This is the right choice for families with younger children or anyone who wants the experience without the scrambling.

The Upper Cave (Adventurous)

Distance: 1.5 miles (one way, returns via surface trail)
Difficulty: Strenuous / Scramble

The Upper Cave is a different beast. It requires climbing over large rock piles (breakdown) and scaling an 8-foot lava fall. It is physically demanding and feels much wilder. If you choose this route, you will exit about 1.5 miles uphill and hike back through the forest to the parking lot.

Pair It With: Trail of Two Forests

Just a minute down the road from Ape Cave is the Trail of Two Forests, and it makes for a perfect cool-down or warm-up. It is a short boardwalk loop that winds through a mossy forest filled with “lava casts”—hollow molds left behind where lava hardened around ancient trees.

There is also a “crawl-through” lava cast that kids absolutely love. It is a quick, easy, and fascinating stop that explains the geology you just walked through inside the cave.

For current conditions and access details, check the official page before you go:
Gifford Pinchot National Forest: Ape Cave

Wildlife and Forest Ecology

While the cave itself has very little life (aside from occasional bats or salamanders), the forest surrounding the entrance is lush and active. The transition from the sterile, dark underground to the vibrant green forest is striking.

Please note that white-nose syndrome is a concern for bats in the region. If you have visited other caves recently, ensure your gear has been cleaned according to Forest Service guidelines to protect the local bat population.

Build a Simple Ape Cave Day Plan

  • The Classic: Lower Cave walk (1 hour) + Trail of Two Forests (30 mins) + Picnic at the trailhead
  • The Workout: Upper Cave scramble (2.5 hours) + Cool down walk at June Lake
  • The Full Day: Ape Cave in the morning + Lava Canyon suspension bridge in the afternoon

If you want to keep planning, our main hub page is here: Things to Do Near Mt. St. Helens.

Wildlife Watching Near Castle Rock, Washington

Hidden Gems For Wildlife Watching Around Castle Rock

If you drive through Castle Rock and think there’s nothing here but a freeway exit and a gas station, congratulations, you’re doing it exactly like everyone else. And that’s why the wildlife still feels wild.

This stretch of southwest Washington sits in a sweet spot most people overlook. Rivers, forest, and the lower foothills of Mount St. Helens all collide here. Animals use it as a corridor. Humans mostly use it as a shortcut. That imbalance is why you can still see deer crossing at dawn, eagles working the river, and otters doing whatever it is otters do when they think nobody is watching.

If you want guaranteed sightings from a boardwalk with interpretive signs, this probably isn’t your scene. If you want real encounters that feel earned, read on.

Timing Matters More Than Location

The single biggest mistake visitors make is going out at noon and wondering where everything went. Wildlife around Castle Rock runs on a simple schedule. Early morning and late evening are when things happen. Midday is when animals hide from people, dogs, and lifted trucks.

If you are not willing to get up early, you should lower your expectations accordingly. Dawn is prime time. Mist on the river, minimal noise, and animals moving with purpose. Dusk is a close second. Midday is for coffee and pretending you meant to take a nap.

The Animals You’re Most Likely to See

Yes, elk exist here. They are not mascots. They move when they want, where they want, and usually when you are not looking. Deer are far more common and far less dramatic. They will appear, stare at you like you’re the weird one, and disappear without explanation.

The real regulars are along the water. Bald eagles patrol the rivers year-round. Hawks work the clearings and tree lines. River otters show up when things are quiet and vanish the second someone starts talking too loudly. Beavers leave plenty of evidence even if you never catch them in the act.

Birdlife is constant if you slow down enough to notice it. Songbirds in the trees, waterfowl on calmer stretches, and the occasional heron standing perfectly still like it is judging your life choices.

Where to Look Without Ruining It

You will not find exact coordinates here, and that is intentional. The best wildlife watching spots stay good because they are not blasted all over the internet.

Instead, look for patterns.

  • Quiet bends along the Toutle River and nearby tributaries where the water slows down.
  • Old logging roads and lightly used forest tracks that create edges between trees and open space.
  • Low, marshy areas and seasonal ponds that attract birds and amphibians, especially in spring and fall.

If you can hear traffic, you are probably too close to it. If you can hear the river and birds instead, you are in the right general area.

What to Bring and What to Leave Behind

You do not need expensive camera gear unless photography is your entire reason for being there. A decent pair of binoculars will outperform a phone camera every time. Wear neutral colors. This is not a fashion show.

Leave the portable speaker at home. Wildlife does not appreciate your playlist. Neither do locals.

Most importantly, bring patience. If you are in a hurry, you will see nothing and blame the place instead of yourself.

Basic Etiquette That Should Be Obvious but Somehow Isn’t

If an animal changes its behavior because of you, you are too close. That includes stopping, staring, moving away, or looking annoyed. Do not follow. Do not feed. Do not try to get a better angle.

Stay on established paths where they exist. Respect private property. Pack out what you bring in. This area still works because most people behave reasonably. Do your part.

If you need formal guidelines, the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife has solid advice, and they have been doing this longer than any influencer.

Best Seasons for Wildlife Watching

Spring brings migratory birds and increased activity along rivers and wetlands. Fall is hard to beat, cooler weather, fewer people, and animals moving more during daylight hours.

Winter is quieter but rewarding if you know what you are doing and dress for it. Summer can be hit or miss depending on heat and crowds, but early mornings still deliver.

Why Staying Nearby Actually Matters

The best wildlife moments happen early and late, which is inconvenient if you are commuting from far away. Staying close means you can step outside with a cup of coffee and catch the river waking up, or watch the evening settle in without checking the clock.

If that sounds appealing, you can learn more about staying near the river and the foothills at rivercabin.us. It is a good base if quiet mornings, wildlife, and not being rushed are part of the plan.

Final Thought

Castle Rock does not advertise itself as a wildlife destination, and that is exactly why it works. If you come here expecting spectacle on demand, you will be disappointed. If you come prepared to slow down and pay attention, you will see far more than you expected.

A Secluded Riverfront Cabin Retreat Near Portland

river cabin deck-overlooking toutle river castle rock wa

If you’re looking for a quiet, nature-filled escape just a short drive from Portland, you’ve found it.

Tucked into the woods of Castle Rock, Washington, The River Cabin sits directly on the banks of the Toutle River, offering a cozy and private retreat that feels a world away. It’s a place where time slows down — you can sip coffee on the deck or soak in the hot tub while bald eagles fly overhead, watch deer amble through the yard, or spot an otter slipping into the water just before dusk.

Whether you’re planning a romantic weekend, an adventure with friends, or simply need a solo recharge, this peaceful spot delivers exactly what your soul’s been craving.


🏞 Why Castle Rock is the Ideal Weekend Getaway from Portland

Just about 90 minutes north of the city, Castle Rock is one of Southwest Washington’s best-kept secrets. It’s the gateway to Mount St. Helens, surrounded by forest, water, and sky — without the tourist crowds.

Our riverfront cabin puts you in easy reach of:

  • Steelhead fishing on the Toutle River (yep, right down the steps to the riverbank)
  • Hiking in the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument
  • Swimming holes, waterfalls, and wildflower meadows nearby
  • Spirit Lake Highway (one of the most scenic drives in the PNW)

It’s a nature-lover’s dream — and when you’re ready to relax, the hot tub, wood stove, and sounds of the river are waiting.


🏡 Inside the River Cabin

The cabin has a welcoming, woodsy vibe — rustic where it counts, but clean and comfortable throughout. It includes:

  • Private riverfront access with a deck and stone steps down to the water
  • Hot tub with a view of the river and towering trees
  • Main Level + loft (sleeps 6 comfortably)
  • Full kitchen and dining space
  • Wood stove and cozy living room for chilly evenings
  • Fast Wi-Fi, Movie Projector, board games, books
  • Heated bathroom floor for those cold winter nights

💬 “This is one of the best Airbnbs we’ve ever stayed at. Hanging out on the large, clean and bug-free porch was absolutely lovely with a beautiful view of the river and wildlife — we even saw river otters! … The host really goes above and beyond what a lot of other hosts do.”
Jenna, April 2025


🧭 What to Do While You’re Here

We’ve built a custom local guide just for our guests — you’ll find ideas for every season and interest, including:

🎣 Fishing: The Toutle is known for steelhead, and local guides are available for booking.
🥾 Hiking: From the easy Hummocks Trail to the more challenging Lava Canyon, there’s something for every skill level.
🌊 Swimming: Some of our favorite swimming holes are just minutes away — check the guidebook for exact spots.
🌋 Day Trips: The Mount St. Helens Visitor Center is just down the road. You can also explore Coldwater Lake, Johnston Ridge Observatory, or make the full drive up Spirit Lake Highway.
🍔 Local eats: Grab a burger at C&L Drive-In, or hit the coffee kiosk in Castle Rock for a cozy latte and pastry.

💬 “We spent hours out on the deck enjoying the comfortable furniture, convenient fire table, and gorgeous views of nature and wildlife. Hot tub was clean and the perfect temp.”
Kandice, June 2024

“My wife and I had a really nice, relaxing stay… we really enjoyed sitting on the porch overlooking the river and watching the hummingbirds come and go all day.”
Tyler, March 2025

Need inspiration? Browse our full guest guide here:
👉 River Cabin Airbnb Guidebook


🦅 Wildlife & Wonder

Nature is part of the experience here. Eagles nest nearby and often soar directly overhead or perch in the tree directly across the river from the back deck. Otters sometimes splash in the shallows in the early morning or just before dusk. Deer graze in the yard. In winter, you might even catch the sound of elk bugling in the distance.

There’s a certain stillness to the place — not empty, but alive in all the right ways.


💸 Book Direct and Save

Booking through rivercabin.us means:

  • No platform or service fees
  • Direct communication with us — the owners
  • The best available rate for your stay

And we’re happy to help you plan your trip.


🛶 Ready to Unplug?

If you’re feeling the pull to unplug, slow down, and be near water — The River Cabin is for you. We’ve hosted hundreds of guests over the years, and the most common thing we hear is: “We wish we stayed longer.”

So whether it’s for a weekend or a full week, come experience the stillness, the stars, the river, and the comfort of a space made for rest.

👉 Book your stay here
📩 Questions? Just reach out — we’re happy to help.